Free Sunflower Summer Tote Crochet Pattern | Easy DIY Bag

I’ve been looking for the perfect summer tote pattern for ages. You know the kind. Sturdy enough to haul farmers market produce, cute enough to get compliments, and interesting enough to keep your hands busy without making your brain hurt. This sunflower tote checks every single box, and I’m so excited to share it with you today. The construction is straightforward single crochet worked in the round, which means no confusing seaming or complicated stitch patterns. But those three dimensional sunflower appliques? They take this bag from simple to stunning. Trust me when you say you’ll want to make this one immediately. Whether you’re looking for a beach bag, a project tote, or a thoughtful handmade gift, this pattern delivers. Let’s get into it.

Why This Project Works

This tote is the perfect blend of practicality and beauty. The dense single crochet body is sturdy enough for a trip to the farmers market, while the layered sunflower appliques add a handmade touch that feels special without being fussy. The neutral linen base lets the golden yellow and olive green pop, and the double-stranded handles are both comfortable and durable. It’s a project that feels productive and creative all at once, and the finished bag is one you’ll reach for all season long.

What You’re Making

This structured tote bag features a dense single crochet body worked in continuous rounds from the bottom up. The star of the show is the trio of three dimensional sunflower appliques stitched to the front panel, complete with layered petals, stems, and leaves. A pretty scallop edging finishes the top opening, and double stranded mustard yellow handles tie everything together. The finished bag measures approximately 15 inches wide by 12 inches tall by 4 inches deep, not including handles. The handles add about 12 inches of drop, bringing your total height from base to top of handle to roughly 24 inches. This gives you plenty of room to carry groceries, books, beach towels, or your latest work in progress. The flat rectangular base creates a boxy, self standing silhouette. Your bag won’t flop over when you set it down. The back panel stays plain, so all that sunflower goodness stays front and center.

Skill Level

This pattern is rated intermediate, but don’t let that scare you off. The bag body uses only single crochet worked in continuous rounds, which is absolutely beginner friendly territory. The intermediate rating comes from a few extra skills you’ll need. You should be comfortable reading rounds without getting lost. You’ll need to know how to work the magic ring (sometimes called magic loop or adjustable loop). The sunflower appliques involve constructing three dimensional flowers with two petal layers, shaping crochet leaves, and neatly sewing everything together at the end. If you’ve completed two or three smaller projects and feel confident changing colors and sewing pieces together, you can absolutely handle this. I’ll walk you through every step.

Time Estimate

Plan for 12 to 18 hours total to complete this bag. Here’s how that breaks down: 6 to 8 hours for the bag body, 4 to 6 hours for three complete sunflower appliques including centers, petals, stems, and leaves, and 2 hours for handle construction, edging, and finishing. This makes a wonderful project to work on over a week or two of evening stitching sessions. Put on your favorite show and let those rows fly by.

Materials You’ll Need

Yarn

You’ll need worsted weight yarn (category 4) in five colors:

• Main Color (MC): Natural linen or oatmeal cotton, approximately 650 yards (594 m)
• Color A (CA): Golden yellow, approximately 80 yards (73 m)
• Color B (CB): Dark brown, approximately 30 yards (27 m)
• Color C (CC): Olive or medium green, approximately 50 yards (46 m)
• Handle Color (HC): Mustard yellow, approximately 100 yards (91 m)

Yarn Suggestions:

• Option 1: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Ecru (MC), Goldenrod (CA and HC), Cafe au Lait (CB), and Fern (CC). This 100% mercerized cotton holds its shape exceptionally well and is machine washable.
• Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double for the body to approximate worsted weight gauge, in Champagne White (MC), Daffodil Yellow (CA), Soft Fudge (CB), and Racing Green (CC).
• Option 3: WeCrochet Swish Worsted in Bare (MC), Canary (CA), Toffee (CB), and Clover (CC). This superwash merino option gives a softer hand than cotton.

Important substitution note: Choose a yarn with low elasticity for the bag body. Cotton, cotton blends, linen blends, and jute cotton blends all work beautifully. High elasticity wools or acrylics will cause the bag to lose its structured, boxy shape over time. Always swatch first.

Hooks

• US size G/6 (4.0 mm) for bag body and appliques
• US size H/8 (5.0 mm) for double stranded handles

Notions

• Yarn needle for seaming and weaving ends
• Stitch markers (at least 4)
• Scissors
• Row counter (optional but highly recommended)
• Straight pins for blocking appliques before sewing

Gauge and Finished Size

Getting gauge right matters here because it determines your finished bag dimensions.

• With MC and G/6 (4.0 mm) hook: 18 sc and 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet worked in rounds
• For handles with HC held double and H/8 (5.0 mm) hook: 14 sc and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet

If your swatch is larger than 4 inches for 18 stitches, go down one hook size. If smaller, go up one hook size.

Abbreviations

Let me define every stitch you’ll encounter. If you’re newer to crochet, bookmark this section.

• ch: Chain. Wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook.
• sl st: Slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion.
• sc: Single crochet. Insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops.
• hdc: Half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops.
• dc: Double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.
• tr: Treble crochet. Yarn over twice, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through two loops) three times.
• sc2tog: Single crochet two together. Insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop, insert hook in following stitch, pull up loop, yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook. This is a decrease.
• magic ring: An adjustable loop start that closes tightly with no hole in the center.
• st(s): Stitch(es)
• BLO: Back loop only
• FLO: Front loop only
• RS: Right side
• WS: Wrong side
• pm: Place marker
• rnd: Round
• sk: Skip
• yo: Yarn over

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds for the bag body, so no joining or turning chains are needed unless specified. Move your stitch marker up each round. The base is worked flat in rows, then you work around all four edges to begin the sides. The handles are worked flat and sewn on. All appliques are made separately and sewn on at the end.

Pattern Instructions

Part 1: Bag Base

The base is worked flat in rows using MC. This creates the rectangular bottom that helps your bag stand upright.

Foundation chain: Chain 69.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in the second chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. (68 sc)

Rows 2 through 18: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (68 sc each row)

After Row 18, do not turn and do not fasten off.

Checkpoint: Your base rectangle should measure approximately 15 inches along the long edge and 4 inches along the short edge. If your measurements differ significantly, recheck your gauge.

Part 2: Bag Body (Sides)

Now you’ll work continuously around all four edges of the base rectangle, building the sides upward.

Setup Round: Do not turn after Row 18. Working along the short end of the base, work 18 sc evenly across the end (approximately 1 sc per row end). Along the foundation chain edge at the bottom, work 68 sc across. Work 18 sc evenly across the other short end. You are now back at the long edge you just finished (Row 18 edge), which has 68 sts already counted. Place marker in the first stitch of this round to mark beginning of round. Join with sl st to first sc of the round. (172 sc total)

The 172 stitch circumference breaks down as: 68 (front) + 18 (right side) + 68 (back) + 18 (left side).

From this point, work in continuous rounds. No joining, no turning chains unless specified. Move your stitch marker up each round.

Rounds 1 through 60: Sc in each st around. (172 sc each round)

After Round 60, sl st to join the round. Do not fasten off. You will proceed to the scallop edging.

Checkpoint: After completing 60 rounds, the sides should measure approximately 12 inches tall from the base.

Part 3: Scallop Edging

This creates those pretty shell shaped scallops you see along the top opening.

1. Skip 2 stitches
2. Work 5 dc into the next stitch
3. Skip 2 stitches
4. Slip stitch into the next stitch

Repeat steps 1 through 4 around. Each scallop uses 6 stitches.

Part 4: Handles (Make 2)

Each handle is worked as a flat sc strip using HC held double and the H/8 (5.0 mm) hook.

Foundation chain: With HC held double, chain 55.

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. (54 sc)

Rows 2 through 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (54 sc each row)

Do not fasten off. Work a slip stitch edging along both long edges of the handle for a neat, rolled edge: sl st evenly along one long edge, across the short end, along the other long edge, and across the remaining short end. Join and fasten off.

Each handle measures approximately 12 inches in length and 1 inch in width.

Make 2 handles.

Part 5: Sunflower Center Disk (Make 3)

With CB, make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull tight to close. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: *Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: *Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around. (30 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Part 5A: Inner Petal Round

With CA, attach yarn to any stitch on the last round of the center disk in BLO.

Rnd 1: *Ch 5, starting in the second ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc. Skip 2 sts on the center disk, sl st into the next st. Repeat from * around. (10 petals)

Fasten off.

Part 5B: Outer Petal Round

With CA, attach yarn to any remaining FLO from the center disk.

Rnd 1: *Ch 7, starting in the second ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc. Skip 2 sts on the center disk, sl st into the next st. Repeat from * around. (10 petals)

Fasten off.

Part 6: Sunflower Stems (Make 3)

With CC, chain 31.

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. (30 sc)

Rows 2 through 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (30 sc each row)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Part 7: Leaves (Make 6)

With CC, chain 10.

Starting in the second chain from hook, work: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, and 1 sl st into the last chain.

Rotate work to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain. Work: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, and 1 sl st.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. This creates one oval pointed leaf shape.

Assembly

Step 1: Block all sunflower pieces gently by dampening with water and pinning to shape. Allow to dry completely before sewing.

Step 2: Position the three stems on the front panel. Space the stems so the leftmost is approximately 3 inches from the left edge, the center stem is centered at approximately 7.5 inches from the left edge, and the rightmost stem is approximately 3 inches from the right edge. The bottom of each stem should rest approximately 1.5 inches from the bottom base seam. Pin in place.

Step 3: Sew each stem to the front panel using CC and a yarn needle with whip stitch along both long edges.

Step 4: Attach one leaf to each side of each stem at a slight diagonal, approximately halfway up the stem.

Step 5: Center one sunflower head over the top of each stem. The bottom of the flower head should overlap the top of the stem by approximately 0.5 inches. Pin and sew securely.

Step 6: Weave in all remaining ends on the bag body.

Handle placement: Position each handle so its ends are attached 4 inches from each side edge of the front and back panels, measured from the top edge. Each handle end overlaps approximately 2 inches down the inside of the bag. Using a yarn needle and HC, sew each handle end securely to the inside of the bag with a box stitch (stitch a rectangle, then stitch an X through it) for maximum strength.

To block the bag body, fill the finished bag with crumpled tissue paper or a plastic bag stuffed with towels to hold the rectangular shape. Lightly mist the outside with water. Gently press and shape the sides and base to lie flat and square. Allow to dry completely. This step is crucial for achieving that beautiful self standing boxy structure.

Care Instructions

Hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent. Do not wring. Press gently between two towels to remove excess water. Reshape and air dry flat. Do not tumble dry or iron directly on the appliques.

Tips for Success

A quick note if you’re feeling nervous about those sunflowers. Work one complete flower first before making all three. This lets you get comfortable with the petal rounds and see how everything comes together. You can always adjust your tension on the remaining flowers if needed.

Keep your stitch markers handy throughout the bag body construction. Sixty rounds of single crochet can blur together quickly, and losing your place is frustrating. Trust me on this one.

The box stitch for attaching handles is worth the extra effort. This bag can hold some weight, and you want those handles absolutely secure. Stitch that rectangle, then stitch the X through the middle. Your future self will thank you.

I really hope you love making this sunflower summer tote as much as I do. It’s the kind of project that feels productive and creative all at once. If you make one, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group.

Save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you’re ready to start, and drop a comment below if you give it a try. Happy stitching!

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

This pattern is designed for worsted weight yarn (category 4). If you use a different weight, you will need to adjust your hook size and swatch to match the gauge. The finished size of the bag will change if the gauge is not met.

How do I make the bag smaller or larger?

To change the size, you can adjust the foundation chain and row count for the base. For a wider bag, add stitches in multiples of 2 to the foundation chain. For a taller bag, add more rounds to the body. Keep in mind that changing the base size will affect the stitch count for the sides.

Can I machine wash this bag?

The care instructions recommend hand washing to preserve the shape and the appliques. If you use a machine-washable yarn like Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, you can machine wash on a gentle cycle, but hand washing is always safest.

What if I can’t get the gauge right?

If your swatch is larger than 4 inches for 18 stitches, go down one hook size. If it’s smaller, go up one hook size. Getting the gauge right is important for the bag to have the correct finished dimensions.

How do I attach the handles securely?

Use a box stitch to sew each handle end to the inside of the bag. Stitch a rectangle, then stitch an X through the middle. This provides maximum strength and ensures the handles can hold weight.

Can I make the sunflower appliques in different colors?

Absolutely! Feel free to customize the colors of the petals, center, stems, and leaves to match your style. The pattern is flexible for color changes.