Crochet Granny Tote: Easy Spring Garden Bag Pattern

There is something deeply satisfying about a crochet project that builds rhythmically, row after row, with each stitch falling into place. The Spring Garden Granny Tote is exactly that kind of project. From the very first granny cluster, you will feel the pattern settle into a comfortable, meditative flow. The stripes stack neatly, the cream lattice opens up like a breath of fresh air, and the scalloped border adds a delicate finish that makes the whole bag feel polished. Every detail, from the way the colors change to the way the handles are constructed, has been designed to keep you hooked.

Texture and Stitch Notes

The magic of this tote lies in its texture. The lower body uses classic granny clusters worked into chain spaces, creating a dense, structured fabric that holds its shape beautifully. The upper body transitions into an airy cream lattice, where the same granny clusters are spaced with chain stitches to create an open, breezy mesh. This contrast between solid and airy is what gives the bag its signature look. The handles are worked flat in single crochet, providing a sturdy, comfortable grip. The overall effect is a bag that feels both substantial and light, perfect for carrying your spring garden finds or everyday essentials.

Project Overview

The Spring Garden Granny Tote is a structured, roomy bag worked entirely in the round from the bottom up. You will start with a flat oval base, then build up the body using classic granny cluster stitches arranged in cheerful horizontal stripes. The upper portion transitions into an airy cream lattice section that gives the bag its signature open, breezy look. The top edge features a pretty scalloped shell border in lavender and pink. Two striped handles are crocheted separately as flat strips, then sewn to the inside. A small metal “Handmade” label finishes the look, though that part is completely optional. This is an intermediate level crochet project. You should be comfortable working in the round, changing colors, and maintaining consistent tension. Nothing here is terribly complicated, but accurate stitch counts matter for achieving that tidy, polished result. Expect to spend somewhere between 12 to 18 hours on this project, depending on your pace.

Finished Dimensions

• Width: approximately 14 inches (35.5 cm) at the widest point
• Height (body only): approximately 10.5 inches (26.5 cm)
• Handle length: approximately 13 inches (33 cm) each
• Handle drop: approximately 9 inches (23 cm)
• Base: approximately 9 inches x 5 inches (23 cm x 12.5 cm)

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4), 100% cotton or cotton blend recommended for structure
• Color A (Cream): approximately 400 yards (366 m)
• Color B (Lavender): approximately 150 yards (137 m)
• Color C (Pink/Coral): approximately 80 yards (73 m)
• Color D (Mint Green): approximately 80 yards (73 m)
• Color E (Yellow): approximately 60 yards (55 m)
• Hook: US size J/10 (6.0 mm)
• Notions: Yarn needle (tapestry needle) for weaving ends, scissors, 4 stitch markers, small metal “Handmade” label or decorative charm (optional), sewing needle and thread to attach label

Yarn Suggestions

• Option 1: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Ecru, Lavender, Pink, Mint, and Lemon. This mercerized cotton gives excellent stitch definition and holds its shape beautifully.
• Option 2: Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double for a softer drape while maintaining durability.
• Option 3: Scheepjes Catona (50g balls held double) for a luxurious finish with exceptional color saturation.

Important: Avoid acrylic-only yarns. They lack the stiffness needed for the bag to hold its shape. Cotton or cotton blends work best here.

Gauge

With your J/10 hook and worsted weight cotton:

• 1 granny cluster repeat (3 dc cluster + ch-1 space) = approximately 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) wide
• 4 rounds of granny cluster pattern = approximately 2 inches (5 cm) tall
• 12 granny clusters across = approximately 15 inches (38 cm)
• 8 rounds of granny cluster = approximately 4 inches (10 cm)

I strongly recommend making a gauge swatch. Work a flat granny square of 4 rounds and measure after blocking. Adjust your hook size if needed. Gauge matters for this project because you want the bag to hold its shape and fit the intended dimensions.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

Let me walk you through every stitch abbreviation you will encounter. Even if you know these already, a quick refresher never hurts.

• ch = chain: Wrap yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook. This creates one chain stitch.
• sl st = slip stitch: Insert hook, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. Used for joining.
• sc = single crochet: Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops.
• dc = double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops.
• hdc = half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops at once.
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• sp(s) = space(s)
• ch-sp = chain space: The gap created by a chain stitch in the previous row/round. You work into this space, not into the chain itself.
• rep = repeat
• pm = place marker
• rm = remove marker
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• beg = beginning
• rnd = round
• yo = yarn over: Wrap the yarn over your hook from back to front.
• granny cl = granny cluster (see special stitches below)
• sk = skip
• rem = remaining

Special Stitches

Granny Cluster (granny cl): Work 3 double crochet stitches into the designated stitch or space. This group of 3 dc counts as one granny cluster unit. When working in rounds with chain-1 spaces between clusters, insert your hook into the ch-1 space (not into the top of a dc) unless otherwise stated. If you have ever made a granny square, you already know this stitch. It is just a little cluster of 3 dc that creates that classic textured look.

Shell Stitch (for border): Work 5 dc into the same stitch or space. This forms a fan or shell shape and creates the scalloped top border.

Granny Lattice Pattern: This is simply working (granny cl, ch 1) into each ch-1 space around, then joining at the end of the round with a slip stitch into the top of the first dc of the first cluster. You repeat this pattern to build the open mesh body of the bag.

Pattern Notes Before You Begin

1. The bag is worked in the round throughout. Only the handles are worked flat.
2. When changing colors, drop the old color and pick up the new color to complete the final yarn over of the joining slip stitch. Carry colors loosely up the inside for short repeats (1 to 2 rounds) or cut and rejoin for longer gaps.
3. Do not turn between rounds unless instructed. The granny cluster pattern creates a right-side fabric.
4. Always work into the ch-1 space, not into the top of the dc, unless instructed otherwise.
5. Stitch counts in this pattern refer to the number of granny cluster units per round, not individual dc stitches. Each cluster counts as 1 unit.
6. Weave in all ends securely using a figure-eight pattern. Cotton yarn can loosen over time.
7. Blocking is strongly recommended. Wet blocking will open up the lattice pattern and help your bag hold its shape.

Pattern Instructions

Base (Flat Oval)

The base is worked in single crochet to create a firm, dense foundation. This is what gives your tote its structure.

Foundation Chain: Using Color A (Cream) and US J/10 hook, ch 25.

Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 23 across to last ch. Work 3 sc in last ch (this is the first short end). Rotate work and sc 22 along the opposite side of the foundation chain. Work 2 sc in the same stitch as the first sc of the round (this is the second short end). Join with sl st to first sc. (50 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout base). 2 sc in first st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc 22, 2 sc in last st. Join with sl st. (54 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1. Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 1, sc 1, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc in last st. Join with sl st. (58 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 1. Sc 2, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 2, sc 2, 2 sc in next st, sc 23, 2 sc in next st, sc 2. Join with sl st. (62 sc)

Lower Body: Striped Granny Cluster Section

The lower body consists of 10 rounds of granny cluster pattern worked in a stripe sequence. Each round is worked into the ch-1 spaces of the previous round.

Color sequence: Looking at the finished bag from bottom to top, your stripes will read: yellow, mint, pink, lavender.

To join a new color: At the end of the last round of a color, draw the new color through the final sl st join. Continue without turning.

Lower Body Round 1 (Color E, Yellow): Join Color E with sl st in any ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp (first granny cl). Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)

Lower Body Round 2 (Color E, Yellow): Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)

Lower Body Round 3 (Color D, Mint): Join Color D. Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)

Lower Body Round 4 (Color D, Mint): Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)

Lower Body Round 5 (Color C, Pink): Join Color C. Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)

Lower Body Round 6 (Color C, Pink): Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)

Lower Body Rounds 7 to 10 (Color B, Lavender): Join Color B. Repeat the same granny cluster round 4 times total. Each round: Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl per round)

Checkpoint: After 10 rounds of striped lower body, the bag body from the base top should measure approximately 4.5 to 5 inches (11.5 to 12.5 cm) tall. Your stripes should be even and the bag should sit flat with a consistent oval circumference.

Fasten off Color B. Join Color A.

Upper Body: Cream Granny Lattice Section

The upper body is worked in Color A (Cream) only. This section creates the beautiful open mesh appearance you see in the finished bag.

Upper Body Rounds 1 through 14 (Color A, Cream):

Round 1: Join Color A in any ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp. Ch 1. (Granny cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1) around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (25 granny cl)

Repeat this exact round 13 more times for a total of 14 rounds.

Checkpoint: After all 14 cream rounds, your total bag height from base top should be approximately 10.5 inches (26.5 cm). The cream section should look airy and open, with clusters stacking in neat vertical columns.

Handles (Make 2)

Each handle is worked flat as a long strip of single crochet in a matching stripe sequence.

Foundation: Using Color B (Lavender) and US J/10 hook, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)

Rows 2 to 4 (Color B, Lavender): Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn at end of each row. (6 sc per row)

Rows 5 to 6 (Color C, Pink): Join Color C. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)

Rows 7 to 8 (Color D, Mint): Join Color D. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)

Rows 9 to 10 (Color E, Yellow): Join Color E. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)

Rows 11 to 12 (Color D, Mint): Join Color D. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)

Rows 13 to 14 (Color C, Pink): Join Color C. Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)

Rows 15 to 20 (Color B, Lavender): Sc in each sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc per row)

Continue repeating the stripe sequence (Lavender, Pink, Mint, Yellow, Mint, Pink, Lavender) until the handle measures approximately 26 inches (66 cm) total length. Fasten off.

Assembly

1. Step 1: Weave in all yarn ends securely using a tapestry needle, working in a figure-eight motion through the back of stitches. Trim ends close.
2. Step 2: If attaching a metal “Handmade” label, use a sewing needle and strong thread to stitch it to the front center of the bag, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) above where the stripe section meets the cream lattice.
3. Step 3: Wet block your bag. Submerge the finished bag in cool water for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Stuff the bag with plastic bags or a towel to hold the oval shape. Shape the top opening so it lies flat and even. Pin the base flat. Allow to dry completely, about 24 to 48 hours.
4. Step 4: Once dry, the granny lattice should be beautifully open and your bag should hold its shape without sagging.

Handle Assembly

Fold the handle strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Using your yarn needle and Color B, whip stitch the long edges together along both sides.

Handle Attachment

Position each handle so the ends are approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart on each side of the bag top opening. Center one handle on the front panel and one on the back. Sew each handle end to the inside of the top border, stitching through multiple layers securely. Work a box stitch pattern for durability: stitch around the perimeter of the handle end, then an X across the middle.

Care Instructions

Hand wash in cool water with gentle soap. Lay flat to dry. Do not wring or twist. Do not machine dry. If the bag loses its shape after washing, re-stuff and allow to air dry again to reset the form.

Size Customization Tips

• To make the bag smaller: Reduce the foundation chain by 6 stitches (to ch 19) and omit 2 base increase rounds. This produces a bag approximately 11 inches (28 cm) wide.
• To make the bag taller: Add additional rounds to the cream lattice section. Each 2 rounds adds approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) of height.
• To add a lining: Sew a cotton fabric lining to the inside after blocking, stitching around the top edge just below the border. This is especially helpful since the open granny lattice allows small items to slip through.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

This pattern is designed for worsted weight (category 4) yarn. Using a different weight will change the gauge and finished size significantly. If you want to experiment, be sure to make a gauge swatch first and adjust your hook size accordingly.

How do I prevent the granny lattice from stretching out of shape?

Wet blocking is key. After washing, stuff the bag with plastic bags or a towel to hold the oval shape while it dries. This will help the lattice open up evenly and maintain its structure. Using a cotton or cotton-blend yarn also helps the bag hold its shape.

Can I make the handles longer or shorter?

Yes. To make the handles longer, simply continue the stripe sequence until the handle measures your desired length. To make them shorter, stop earlier. Keep in mind that the handle drop will change accordingly.

What is the best way to attach the handles securely?

Use a box stitch pattern: stitch around the perimeter of the handle end, then stitch an X across the middle. This distributes the weight evenly and prevents the handles from pulling loose over time.

Can I skip the blocking step?

Blocking is strongly recommended. It opens up the granny lattice pattern, evens out the stitches, and helps the bag hold its shape. Skipping it may result in a bag that looks less polished and doesn’t hang as nicely.

How do I care for my finished tote?

Hand wash in cool water with gentle soap. Lay flat to dry. Do not wring or twist. If the bag loses its shape after washing, re-stuff and allow to air dry again to reset the form.