Have you ever started an amigurumi project only to worry that the neck will end up too floppy or too stiff? It’s a common concern, especially with designs that feature a long, elegant neck. But this Tie Neck Goose pattern turns that worry into a delightful feature. The neck is intentionally left unstuffed, creating a soft, posable stem that gives your goose its unique character. This project feels approachable because it’s worked in one continuous piece, so there’s no complicated sewing of separate parts. You’ll be amazed at how quickly this charming goose comes together.
Maker Notes
This goose is a wonderful project for anyone looking to try a slightly more advanced amigurumi without feeling overwhelmed. The continuous construction is surprisingly satisfying, and the finished goose is incredibly huggable. The chenille-style yarn gives it a plush, premium feel that’s perfect for a nursery or as a thoughtful handmade gift. The bright orange feet and beak add a cheerful pop of color, while the long, bendable neck invites endless posing possibilities. It’s a pattern that feels both whimsical and polished.
Project Overview
This Tie Neck Goose Amigurumi is an intermediate-level crochet pattern worked in one continuous piece from head to body. The design features a long, unstuffed neck that allows for posing, and the legs, feet, and wings are crocheted directly into the body, eliminating the need for sewing. The finished goose is soft, plush, and full of personality.
Materials
- Yarn: Wolans Bunny Baby chenille-style yarn (Bulky, CYCA #5) in White and Orange
- Hook: US G/6 (4 mm)
- Safety eyes: 2, 10 mm, safety-lock backing
- Fiberfill stuffing
- Stitch marker
- Yarn/tapestry needle
- Scissors
Gauge and Finished Size
Gauge is not critical for this project; it only affects the finished size of your goose. Finished size is approximately 13 inches (33 cm) tall when made with the materials listed above.
Abbreviations
- ch — Chain
- dc — Double Crochet
- dec — Decrease (invisible decrease)
- FLO — Front Loop Only
- inc — Increase (2 sc in same stitch)
- MR — Magic Ring
- Puff(x) — Puff Stitch (x = number of unfinished loops worked into one stitch and closed together)
- sc — Single Crochet
Pattern Notes
- This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.
- The goose is worked in one continuous piece, in continuous spiral rounds — do not join or chain up unless otherwise noted.
- Stitch count is given at the end of each round in parentheses, like this: (12).
- The head and body are stuffed as you go; the neck is left unstuffed so it stays soft and posable.
- Legs, feet, and wings are worked directly into the body as you go — read each round carefully, as several shaping techniques happen within a single round.
Pattern Instructions
Head, Neck & Body (worked in one piece)
Begin with White yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: sc, inc repeat around. (18)
Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc repeat around. (24)
Rnd 5: 2 sc, change to Orange, ch 5, work 2 dc starting in the 3rd ch from hook, ch 2, sc in the same ch, then work 2 sc down the remaining chain to form the first foot, change to White and work 4 sc, change to Orange and repeat the same foot shape for the second foot, 8 sc, working in FLO of this round: 2 dc, ch 2, sc repeat 3 times, 7 sc to complete the round. (24)
Rnd 6: sc in each st around. (24)
Rnd 7: 13 sc, dec 3 times, 5 sc. (21)
Rnd 8: 5 sc, dec repeat 3 times. (18)
Rnd 9: 4 sc, dec repeat 3 times. (15)
Rnd 10: 3 sc, dec repeat 3 times. (12)
Begin stuffing the head firmly before continuing.
Rnd 11: 1 sc, ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from hook work 6 dc, 5 sc, ch 7 again, starting in the 2nd ch from hook work 6 dc, 6 sc — this forms both wings. (12)
Rnd 12: dec 6 times. (6)
Do not stuff the neck. Leave it soft and flexible for posing.
Rnds 13–47: sc in each st around. (6)
Rnd 48: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 49: inc in each st around. (24)
Rnd 50: sc in each st around. (24)
Begin stuffing the body firmly, adding more as you complete each round.
Rnd 51: 18 sc, change to Orange and work Puff(3), Puff(3), 4 sc — this forms the tail feathers. (24)
Rnds 52–54: sc in each st around. (24)
Rnd 55: 2 sc, dec repeat 6 times. (18)
Rnd 56: 1 sc, dec repeat 6 times. (12)
Rnd 57: dec 6 times. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and weave through the remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close the opening.
Assembly
- Before completing the shaping decreases on the head (between Rounds 3 and 4), position and attach your 10 mm safety eyes, spacing them evenly on either side of the orange beak shape.
- Add stuffing to the head as you work Rounds 8 through 12, packing it firmly enough to hold its round shape without overstuffing the seam.
- Leave the neck (Rounds 13–47) completely unstuffed so it stays soft, bendable, and able to hold a pose.
- Stuff the body generously as you complete Rounds 50 through 57, working the stuffing into the tail and rear evenly before closing.
- Use the fastened-off tail from the final round to close the last opening with a woven cinch, then secure with a few small stitches.
- Weave in all remaining ends throughout the piece, including at the color changes for the feet, wings, and tail feathers.
Tips
- Getting the tension right on chenille-style yarn takes a little practice, since it’s stretchier and less structured than cotton or acrylic. Keep your stitches slightly snug and consistent throughout so your stuffing doesn’t peek through — this matters most around the head and body where the fabric needs to hold its shape.
- For a clean invisible decrease, insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch and the front loop of the following stitch, then pull your yarn through both loops at once before completing the single crochet as normal. This keeps your decreases smooth and nearly invisible along the goose’s rounded head and tail.
- When it comes to stuffing firmness, aim for a shape that holds its form when gently squeezed but still gives slightly under pressure — this keeps the goose huggable rather than rigid. Stop adding stuffing once the piece feels firm but not stretched.
- If you want to substitute yarn, a worsted or bulky weight chenille or velvet-style yarn will give you the closest texture and finished size to the original. Switching to a smooth acrylic worsted will still work beautifully, but expect a slightly smaller, less plush finished goose.
- Round 5 is the trickiest section of this whole pattern, since the feet, color changes, and front-loop wing detail all happen within a single round. Work slowly, use a stitch marker to track your round start, and don’t be afraid to count stitches after each color change before moving forward.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size hook and yarn weight does this goose amigurumi pattern use?
This pattern uses a US G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook paired with a bulky weight chenille-style yarn like Wolans Bunny Baby. This yarn and hook combination gives the finished goose its soft, plush texture and helps keep stitches tight enough to hold the stuffing in.
Why is the neck of the goose left unstuffed?
The neck is intentionally left unstuffed so the finished goose can bend and hold different poses. Stuffing this long section would make it stiff and prevent the signature flexible neck look that defines this design.
How are the legs, feet, and wings made without sewing on separate pieces?
The feet are crocheted directly into Round 5 using a color change and a small chain-and-double-crochet shape, and the wings are formed the same way in Round 11 using chains and double crochet stitches worked into the body. This one-piece construction method means there are no extra parts to sew on separately, which keeps the finished goose seamless and sturdy.
What finished size can I expect from this pattern?
Using the yarn and hook listed in the materials, the finished goose measures approximately 13 inches (33 cm) tall. Substituting a thinner or thicker yarn will change the finished size accordingly, so keep that in mind if you want a specific size for a gift or display piece.
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