Charming Lavender Fields Granny Square Bag Crochet Pattern

I can’t believe how stunning this bag turned out. The Lavender Fields Granny Square Bag is one of those projects that looks incredibly impressive but is made from techniques you already know. It is cute, useful, and makes a perfect gift for anyone who loves cottage-core style. The finished piece is tidy, display-worthy, and has a squishy, satisfying weight thanks to the cotton yarn. You are going to love making this.

Why the Finished Piece Stands Out

What makes this bag so special is the clever combination of classic granny squares with dimensional lavender embellishments. The rounded silhouette is achieved through a simple shaping trick, and the surface crochet stems and embroidered lavender sprigs add a beautiful handcrafted detail. The cream, lavender, and sage color palette is timeless and versatile, making it a bag you will reach for again and again. The wooden rings and button add a natural, earthy touch that completes the look.

Project Overview

This bag is constructed from two identical panels, each made of nine granny squares arranged in a 3×3 grid and joined as you go. The panels are then joined at the sides and bottom. Each panel receives a shaping round that curves the top edge inward and rounds the bottom corners. Lavender embellishments are added after blocking, and the strap is worked in single crochet and sewn to the bag top.

Materials

• Yarn: Yarn A (main color, cream): approximately 650 yards / 595 meters of worsted weight 100% cotton yarn. Yarn B (lavender/purple): approximately 80 yards / 73 meters. Yarn C (green): approximately 60 yards / 55 meters.
• Suggested yarns: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Cream, Lavender, and Sage works beautifully. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton in Paper White, Pansy Purple, and Racing Green is another option (use a 4.5 mm hook). WeCrochet Dishie in Cream, Iris, and Basil gives excellent texture. Use any smooth worsted or DK cotton yarn that achieves the stated gauge. Avoid fluffy or highly textured yarns.
• Hook: US size G-6 / 4.0 mm crochet hook.
• Notions: 2 wooden rings (approx. 1.5 inches / 3.8 cm diameter), 1 wooden button (approx. 0.75 inch / 2 cm diameter), tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors, blocking mat and pins (optional), thin cotton fabric for lining (optional, approx. 0.5 yard / 0.45 meter).

Gauge and Finished Size

Your completed bag will measure approximately 13 inches wide by 11 inches tall (33 cm by 28 cm), not including the handles. The depth at the widest point is approximately 2.5 inches (6.5 cm). The handle drop from the top of the bag to the wooden ring measures approximately 8 inches (20 cm).

Gauge is critical. One completed granny square should measure 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm) after blocking. In single crochet worked in rows, 16 stitches and 18 rows equals 4 inches (10 cm). If your square is larger, go down one hook size. If smaller, go up one hook size. Always make a gauge swatch.

Skill Level

This is an intermediate level pattern. You should be comfortable with granny squares, joining-as-you-go (JAYG), working in the round, seaming panels, surface crochet, and adding dimensional embellishments. Plan for approximately 18 to 24 hours of working time for an experienced intermediate crocheter.

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• sp: space
• ch-sp: chain space
• sk: skip
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rep: repeat
• pm: place marker
• rm: remove marker
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• JAYG: join as you go
• tog: together
• yo: yarn over
• rnd(s): round(s)

Pattern Notes

• The bag is constructed from two identical panels, each made of nine granny squares arranged in a 3×3 grid and joined as you go. The panels are then joined at the sides and bottom.
• Each panel receives a shaping round worked in single crochet that curves the top edge inward and rounds the bottom corners.
• Lavender embellishments are added after both panels are blocked and before the panels are joined.
• The strap is worked in single crochet in rows, folded around the wooden ring, and sewn to the bag top.
• Throughout this pattern, each granny square corner is a (gr-cl, ch 2, gr-cl) worked into a ch-2 corner space. Each side consists of one gr-cl worked into a ch-1 space between corner clusters.
• When joining squares using JAYG, replace the ch 2 at the joining corner or ch 1 at the joining side with: ch 1, sl st into the corresponding ch-sp of the adjacent completed square, ch 1.
• Chain 3 at the beginning of a round counts as the first dc of a cluster only when specified. Otherwise, ch 3 is a turning chain only and does not count as a stitch.
• Block each panel before joining. Cotton blocks well with wet blocking. Pin to measurements and allow to dry fully.

Pattern Instructions

Granny Square (Make 18 Total, 9 Per Panel)

Begin each square with Yarn A.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 2 dc into ring, ch 2, (3 dc into ring, ch 2) 3 times. Sl st into top of beginning ch-3 to join. Pull ring closed. (4 clusters of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)

Round 2: Sl st into each of next 2 dc, sl st into ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc of first cluster). Work 2 dc into same corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc into same corner sp (first corner made). Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into next ch-2 corner sp, ch 1. Rep from ( to ) 2 more times. Sl st into top of beginning ch-3. (8 groups of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces, 4 ch-1 side spaces)

Round 3: Sl st into each of next 2 dc, sl st into ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3, 2 dc into same corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc into same corner sp (corner made). Ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) into next ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Rep from corner instruction 2 more times to complete round. Sl st into top of beginning ch-3. (12 groups of 3 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces, 8 ch-1 side spaces)

Fasten off and weave in ends. Each completed square should measure 4 inches (10 cm) square.

Joining Squares Into Panels (Make 2 Panels)

Arrange 9 squares in a 3-column by 3-row grid on a flat surface, right sides facing up. Join them using JAYG on the final round of each square as you add it to the panel. The first square (top left position) is already complete. Each subsequent square is worked through Round 2 independently, then its Round 3 is worked as a JAYG round.

For JAYG Round 3 of any square being added: Work the side(s) of the square that face an already-completed square using the JAYG method. When you reach a ch-1 sp on the joining side, replace ch 1 with: ch 1, sl st into corresponding ch-1 sp on completed square, ch 1. When you reach a ch-2 corner sp on the joining corner, replace ch 2 with: ch 1, sl st into corresponding ch-2 corner sp of completed square, ch 1.

Work squares in the following order for each panel:

• Position 1 (top left): complete independently through Round 3.
• Position 2 (top center): complete Round 3 as JAYG, joining to right side of Position 1.
• Position 3 (top right): complete Round 3 as JAYG, joining to right side of Position 2.
• Position 4 (middle left): complete Round 3 as JAYG, joining to bottom of Position 1.
• Position 5 (middle center): complete Round 3 as JAYG, joining to bottom of Position 2 and right side of Position 4.
• Position 6 (middle right): complete Round 3 as JAYG, joining to bottom of Position 3 and right side of Position 5.
• Position 7 (bottom left): complete Round 3 as JAYG, joining to bottom of Position 4.
• Position 8 (bottom center): complete Round 3 as JAYG, joining to bottom of Position 5 and right side of Position 7.
• Position 9 (bottom right): complete Round 3 as JAYG, joining to bottom of Position 6 and right side of Position 8.

Completed panel should measure approximately 12 inches wide by 12 inches tall (30.5 cm by 30.5 cm).

Shaping Round for Each Panel

This round is worked around the entire outer edge of each completed panel in Yarn A. It creates the rounded bottom silhouette and prepares the top edge for the opening.

Join Yarn A with a sl st to the ch-2 corner sp at the top right corner of the panel.

Round 1 (Edging Round, worked in sc): Ch 1 (does not count as st). Work sc evenly around the entire panel as follows: Along each straight outer side of each square: work 3 sc into each ch-1 side sp and 1 sc into each joining sl st between squares. At each outer corner ch-2 sp of each square: work (sc, ch 1, sc) into the ch-2 sp. At each inner corner where squares meet at a shared corner point: work 1 sc into the joint. At the four outermost corners of the entire panel: work (sc, ch 2, sc) to create a proper corner turn. Aim for approximately 37 sc along each long side of the panel and 37 sc along each short side, with corner ch-2 sps at each panel corner. (Total approximately 152 sc plus 4 ch-2 corner sps) Sl st to first sc to join. Do not turn.

Round 2 (Bottom Rounding Round, worked in sc): The top edge of the panel (the opening of the bag) will be worked straight. The bottom corners will be rounded by omitting the corner ch-2 increases. Ch 1. Sc in each sc across the top edge (37 sts), sc in ch-2 corner sp (no ch-2 increase, just sc), sc in each sc down the right side (37 sts), sc in ch-2 corner sp (no ch-2 increase, just sc), sc in each sc across the bottom (37 sts), sc in ch-2 corner sp (no ch-2 increase, just sc), sc in each sc up the left side (37 sts), sl st to first sc. (152 sc)

Round 3 (Reinforcement Round): Ch 1. Sc in each sc around. Sl st to first sc to join. (152 sc)

Fasten off Yarn A. Weave in ends. Each shaped panel should now have a gently rounded bottom edge and a straight top edge. The panel should measure approximately 13 inches wide at its widest point and approximately 11.5 inches from the straight top edge to the lowest point of the rounded bottom.

Lavender Embellishment

Using Yarn B (lavender) and a tapestry needle, work lavender sprig clusters on the front panel. Each sprig consists of three clusters. Come up from the wrong side of the fabric at the base of where a lavender blossom will sit. Work 5 to 7 small straight stitches of varying heights (0.25 to 0.5 inch / 6 to 12 mm long), fanning them slightly to create the appearance of a lavender flower head. Return needle to wrong side and fasten off. Repeat for each cluster. Use pins to mark where each sprig will go before you start stitching.

Using Yarn C (green) and surface slip stitch, create stems for each lavender sprig. With the right side facing and working yarn held behind fabric, insert hook from front to back through a stitch. Draw up a loop of the working yarn through the fabric, then through the loop on hook. Move to the next stitch position and repeat. This creates a visible chain of stitches on the surface.

Scallop Border on Top Edge

With Yarn A, join yarn with a sl st to the top edge of the panel. Work scallop stitch: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) all into the same stitch or space. Each scallop is separated by a slip stitch into the next stitch. Repeat across the top edge.

Joining the Two Panels

Hold both panels with RS facing outward (WS together). The panels are joined along their side edges and bottom curved edge using a sc join worked through both layers simultaneously. With Yarn A, join yarn with a sl st through both layers at the top right corner of the right side edge (just below the scallop border). Ch 1. Working through both layers simultaneously, sc evenly down the right side, across the bottom curved edge, and up the left side. Work approximately 3 sc per 4-row equivalent of edge, and 1 sc into each sc of the outer edge. At the bottom curve, follow the natural curve of the fabric without adding extra sts at corners. Stop at the top left corner of the left side edge (just below the scallop border on the left side). Do not join the top edge. Fasten off Yarn A. Weave in end.

Handle Straps (Make 2)

With Yarn A, ch 7. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (6 sc) Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn. (6 sc) Rep Row 2 until strap measures 9 inches (23 cm) from foundation chain. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail for sewing.

Fold strap in half, threading the fold through one wooden ring so the ring sits at the midpoint of the folded strap. Align the two raw ends and place them against the inside top edge of the bag, centered on one side panel (approximately 3.5 inches / 9 cm in from each top corner). Sew the double thickness of strap ends firmly to the bag using the tapestry needle and the long yarn tail. Use whipstitch or mattress stitch through both layers of strap and through the top edge of the bag. Sew at least 1.5 inches (4 cm) of the strap end to the bag. Repeat for second handle on the other side of the bag.

Button Closure

Sew the wooden button to the front panel at the center of the top edge. Create a loop closure on the back panel using a chain of slip stitches or a small crochet loop.

Finishing

Weave in all remaining ends on the WS of the bag using a tapestry needle. Turn the bag inside out and press lightly with a damp cloth or steam iron on the lowest setting to set the shape. Do not apply direct iron heat to the yarn. Allow to dry.

Optional lining: Cut lining fabric to two pieces, each 14 inches wide by 12.5 inches tall (35.5 cm by 32 cm). With RS together, sew side and bottom seams using a 0.5 inch (1.25 cm) seam allowance, rounding the bottom corners slightly to match the bag shape. Fold the top edge of the lining down by 0.75 inch (2 cm) and press. Insert lining into bag with WS of lining facing WS of bag. Slip stitch the folded top edge of the lining to the inside of the bag just below the scallop border.

Care Instructions

Machine wash on gentle cycle in cold water. Place bag inside a mesh laundry bag to protect the embellishments and wooden rings. Remove wooden rings before washing if possible. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Do not dry clean. Store stuffed with tissue paper to maintain the rounded shape.

Tips for Success

• Take your time with the join-as-you-go technique. It creates a clean, professional look.
• When adding the lavender embellishments, work on a flat surface with good lighting. Use pins to mark where each sprig will go before you start stitching.
• Do not skip the blocking step. Cotton opens up and relaxes when wet blocked, making your granny squares look even and professional.
• If this is your first time doing surface crochet for the stems, practice on a swatch first to get the tension right.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes, this bag can be worked in DK weight cotton using a 3.5 mm hook. The finished bag will be approximately 10 percent smaller. Adjust yarn quantities down by approximately 15 percent.

How do I make the bag larger?

Work additional rounds on each granny square before joining, or increase the number of squares per panel to a 4×3 or 4×4 arrangement. Each additional round adds approximately 1.25 inches (3 cm) to the square size. Each additional column of squares adds approximately 4 inches (10 cm) to the width.

How do I make the bag smaller?

Reduce to a 2×3 grid of squares per panel for a clutch-sized bag. Omit the wooden ring handles and work a simple chain loop handle instead.

Can I add a gusset for more depth?

Yes, after joining the panels, work a gusset strip separately (approximately 3 inches / 7.5 cm wide in sc) and seam it between the two panels along the sides and bottom, rather than joining directly edge to edge.

What if my gauge is off?

Cotton yarn has very little stretch and does not forgive gauge discrepancies. If your square is larger than 4 inches, go down one hook size. If your square is smaller, go up one hook size. Always make a gauge swatch before beginning.

How do I care for the wooden rings?

Remove the wooden rings before washing if possible. If they get wet, allow them to air dry completely before reattaching. Do not tumble dry, as heat can warp the rings.