Have you ever started a crochet bag, only to worry halfway through that the sides will flop or the stitches will look uneven? That’s a common worry, but this Cute Daisy Tote Crochet Pattern is designed to feel approachable from the very first round. With a structured bucket shape, cheerful daisy squares, and a clear step-by-step build, you’ll find that even the puff stitches and elongated petals become second nature. Let’s make a bag that feels like carrying sunshine.
Maker Notes
This pattern is a joy because it combines two favorite techniques: a sturdy, continuous-round bag body and four oversized granny squares with dimensional flower details. The mustard yellow and cream color palette is classic and versatile, perfect for farmers market trips or everyday errands. The cotton yarn gives the bag its signature structure, while the tassel charm and decorative flower add a playful finishing touch. Take your time with the daisy squares—they’re the star of the show.
Project Overview
This crochet tote bag pattern creates a structured bucket-style bag with a flat circular base, straight cylindrical walls, and a single looped handle on top. The star of the show is the four large daisy granny squares that get seamed onto the exterior as decorative panels. Two squares sit on the front face, two on the back. The finished bag measures approximately 12 inches wide by 11 inches tall, not including the handle. The base diameter comes in around 9 inches, giving you plenty of room for farmers market finds, library books, or your current work in progress. Skill level: Intermediate. You will need to be comfortable working in the round, making granny squares, and doing some basic seaming. The daisy center uses a puff stitch, and the petals use an elongated single crochet technique. Neither is difficult once you get the hang of it, but they do require attention to tension. Time estimate: Plan for 18 to 24 hours of crochet time if you work at an intermediate pace. That includes all four daisy squares, the bag body, handle, tassel charm, and fabric lining.
Materials
Yarn
Main Color (MC): Mustard yellow worsted weight cotton or cotton blend, approximately 650 yards
Contrast Color (CC): Cream or off-white in the same yarn weight, approximately 200 yards
Cotton yarn is important here. The natural stiffness of cotton gives this bag its structured bucket shape. Acrylic will result in a floppy bag that does not hold its silhouette. Yarn suggestions that work beautifully:
- Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Goldenrod and Ecru. This is 100% mercerized cotton with excellent stitch definition. Machine washable and widely available.
- Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton in Mustard Yellow and Champagne White. Slightly lighter weight but works well with the larger hook for a dense fabric.
- We Are Knitters The Cotton in Mustard and Raw White. Pima cotton with a softer hand that still provides good structure.
Hooks
US size G-6 (4.00 mm) for the daisy squares
US size H-8 (5.00 mm) for the bag body and handle
You need both sizes. The smaller hook creates tighter, more defined daisy motifs. The larger hook builds the bag body at the correct gauge.
Notions
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers (at least 4)
Fabric for lining: 1/2 yard of cotton canvas or quilting cotton in natural or cream
Sewing needle and thread to match lining
4 to 6 wooden beads with holes large enough for yarn, approximately 1/2 inch diameter
Scissors
Pins
Iron and pressing cloth for blocking
Gauge and Finished Size
Getting gauge right matters for this project. A bag that is too loose will flop over. Too tight and it will be stiff and smaller than expected.
Bag body with H-8 hook in single crochet:
16 sc x 18 rounds = 4 inches square
Daisy square with G-6 hook, blocked:
One completed square = 5.5 inches square
Swatch before you start. Adjust your hook size up or down as needed.
Abbreviations
Let me walk you through all the stitches and abbreviations you will encounter. I am defining everything on first use so you have it all in one place.
- ch = chain. Wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook.
- sl st = slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion.
- sc = single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.
- hdc = half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops.
- dc = double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops.
- MR = magic ring. An adjustable starting loop that can be pulled tight to close the center hole.
- BLO = back loop only. Work into just the back loop of the stitch instead of both loops.
- inc = increase. Work 2 sc into the same stitch.
- pm = place marker
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rep = repeat
- sk = skip
- sp = space
- ch-sp = chain space
Pattern Notes
Read through these before you start crocheting. They will save you confusion later.
- The bag body is worked in continuous rounds with no joining at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch and move it up as you go.
- The daisy squares are made separately with the smaller hook, blocked flat, then sewn onto the finished bag body.
- Four squares total. Two go on the front, two on the back, arranged side by side.
- When changing colors, work the last yarn over of the final stitch in the old color with the new color. This creates a clean color transition.
- Stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of each round.
- All rounds are worked with the right side facing unless noted otherwise.
Special Stitches
Puff Stitch (ps): This creates the textured center of each daisy. Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop to about 1/2 inch height. Without completing the stitch, insert hook into the same stitch again, yarn over and pull up another loop to the same height. Repeat one more time. You now have 7 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops at once. Chain 1 to close and secure the puff. Do not panic if this feels awkward at first. The key is keeping all those pulled-up loops at the same height before you close them.
Elongated Single Crochet Petal (escp): This creates the raised sculptural petals. Insert your hook into the foundation ring or designated space, yarn over, and pull up a loop to about 3/4 inch to 1 inch height. Do not let it collapse to normal sc height. Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. The elongated draw-up is what makes the petals stand up and look like actual flower petals instead of flat stitches.
Standing Single Crochet (ssc): A way to join new yarn without a slip stitch. Start with a slip knot on your hook, insert hook into the designated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. This gives you a cleaner color join.
Invisible Join: Cut yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Thread onto tapestry needle. Insert needle under both loops of the first stitch of the round from front to back. Insert needle back down through the center of the last stitch made. Pull gently to match the tension of surrounding stitches.
Pattern Instructions
Section 1: Bag Base
The base is a flat circle worked in joined rounds with turning chains. This creates a firm, flat bottom. With MC and H-8 hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as st), work 8 sc into the magic ring, sl st to first sc to join, pull ring closed. (8 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, turn. Working into the WS, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (16 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) around, sl st to first sc to join. (24 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (32 sc)
Round 5: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (40 sc)
Round 6: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (48 sc)
Round 7: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (56 sc)
Round 8: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (64 sc)
Round 9: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (72 sc)
Round 10: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (80 sc)
Round 11: Ch 1, turn. (2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts) around, sl st to first sc to join. (88 sc)
Section 2: Bag Body (Side Walls)
Now we build the walls straight up from the base. This is where the bag gets its bucket shape. Continue with MC and H-8 hook. At the end of Round 11, do NOT turn.
Round 12 (Transition Round): Ch 1, do not turn. Working in BLO of each stitch around, sc in each st around. Do not join. Place marker in first st. (88 sc)
Working in the back loop only creates a crisp fold line between the base and walls. This is what gives the bag its defined bucket silhouette.
Rounds 13 through 38: Sc in each st around, working through both loops. Move marker up each round. (88 sc each round)
That is 26 rounds of plain single crochet. The walls should measure approximately 9.5 inches tall from the fold line.
Checkpoint: After Round 38, your bag body should be about 9.5 inches tall and approximately 12 inches wide when laid flat.
Round 39 (Handle Attachment Prep): Sc in next 22 sts, pm for handle left attachment point, sc in next 44 sts, pm for handle right attachment point, sc in next 22 sts. (88 sc)
Your two handle markers should sit directly opposite each other.
Rounds 40 and 41: Sc in each st around. (88 sc each round)
At end of Round 41, sl st to next st, fasten off. Weave in ends.
Section 3: Daisy Granny Square (Make 4)
Daisy Center
With CC and G-6 hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 8 sc into MR, sl st to first sc to join. Pull ring closed. (8 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, (ps in next st, ch 1) 8 times, sl st to top of first ps. Fasten off CC. (8 ps, 8 ch-1 sps)
Daisy Petals
With CC, join with ssc in any ch-1 sp.
Round 3: (escp in same sp, ch 1, escp in same sp) in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to first escp. Fasten off CC. (16 escp)
Outer Petal Round
With CC, join with ssc in any ch-1 sp between two escp.
Round 4: (escp in same sp, ch 2, escp in same sp) in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to first escp. Fasten off CC. (16 escp, 16 ch-2 sps)
Granny Square Border
With MC and G-6 hook, join with ssc in any ch-2 sp.
Round 5: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp (corner made), *ch 1, (2 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1) 3 times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp* rep from * to * 3 more times, omitting last corner, sl st to first dc. Fasten off. (4 corners, 12 side groups)
Section 4: Handle
With MC and H-8 hook.
Ch 81.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (80 sc)
Rows 2 through 6: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (80 sc each row)
At end of Row 6, do not fasten off.
Fold the strip in half lengthwise so the long edges meet. Working through both layers, sl st the long open edge together to form a tube. Fasten off, leaving a 24-inch tail.
The handle should be approximately 20 inches long, giving a loop height of about 5 inches above the bag opening.
Handle Attachment
Locate your handle markers from Round 39. Pin one end of the handle to each marker location, with about 1 inch of overlap on the inside of the bag.
Using the tail and tapestry needle, whipstitch each handle end securely to the inside top of the bag wall. Pass through at least 3 times in each direction for strength. Weave in ends.
Section 5: Tassel Charm and Decorative Flower
Tassel Charm
Cut 20 strands of MC and 10 strands of CC, each 10 inches long.
Cut one strand of MC approximately 18 inches long for the cord.
Fold the cord strand in half. Add 3 wooden beads onto the folded cord. Tie an overhand knot below the beads. Braid or twist the two cord strands together above the beads for approximately 3 inches.
Gather all cut strands into a bundle. Fold the bundle in half. Loop the folded end through the cord loop and pull cut ends through (lark’s head knot). Wrap a separate strand of MC tightly around the bundle about 3/4 inch below the fold. Knot and trim. Trim tassel skirt to approximately 3 inches.
Assembly
Weave in all ends through at least 4 stitches in alternating directions.
Block the finished bag by lightly dampening it and shaping over a rounded form like a bowl or crumpled towel. Pat the daisy squares flat. Let dry completely.
Care: Machine wash gentle cycle in cool water inside a mesh bag. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Remove wooden beads before washing or hand wash only.
Tips
To make it wider: Add repeats of 8 sc to the base (one more increase round). Every 8 stitches adds about 0.75 inches to the width. Scale your daisy squares accordingly.
To make it taller: Add more plain sc rounds between Rounds 12 and 38. Every 4 rounds adds approximately 1 inch of height.
Different yarn weight: DK weight with a G-6 hook produces a bag about 10 percent smaller. Recalculate lining dimensions.
FAQs
Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton?
Cotton is strongly recommended because its natural stiffness gives the bag its structured bucket shape. Acrylic will result in a floppy bag that does not hold its silhouette.
How do I attach the daisy squares to the bag?
The daisy squares are sewn onto the finished bag body after blocking. Use a tapestry needle and matching yarn to whipstitch them in place, two on the front and two on the back, arranged side by side.
What if my puff stitches look uneven?
Keep all the pulled-up loops at the same height before you close them. Practice on a swatch first—it gets easier with repetition.
Can I make the bag larger or smaller?
Yes. To make it wider, add repeats of 8 sc to the base (one more increase round). To make it taller, add more plain sc rounds between Rounds 12 and 38. Adjust your daisy squares accordingly.
How do I care for the finished bag?
Machine wash gentle cycle in cool water inside a mesh bag. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Remove wooden beads before washing or hand wash only.
What is the best way to block the daisy squares?
Lightly dampen the squares and pin them flat to the correct measurements (5.5 inches square). Use an iron with a pressing cloth to gently steam them, then let them dry completely before sewing onto the bag.
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