Spring is the perfect season to bring out the delicate, cheerful vibes of a handmade toddler dress. The Blue Forget Me Not Dress captures the essence of a blooming garden with its cornflower blue bodice and a flowing white skirt adorned with tiny floral motifs. This pattern is designed for special occasions, offering a polished look that is both charming and comfortable for little ones. It is a project that rewards patience with a beautiful, heirloom-quality result.
Seasonal Styling Ideas
While the forget-me-not theme is quintessential for spring, the color palette is versatile enough for year-round wear. The contrast of cornflower blue and white works beautifully for Easter celebrations or a summer garden party. For a cooler season twist, pair the dress with a soft, cream-colored cardigan or tights for an autumn wedding or a cozy holiday gathering. The flutter sleeves provide just enough coverage for breezy days while maintaining that airy, twirl-worthy silhouette.
Project Overview
This Blue Forget Me Not Dress is designed for toddlers approximately 2 to 3 years old. The target finished chest measurement is 56 cm (about 22 inches), intended for a body chest of 50 to 52 cm with 4 to 6 cm of ease. The shoulder-to-hem length runs approximately 46 to 49 cm, with a bodice depth of about 22 cm.
This is a single-size pattern, not graded for multiple sizes. Please choose based on actual body measurements rather than age alone. Children vary so much at this stage, and you want a dress that fits comfortably without being too snug or swimming on them. The skill level is intermediate to advanced. You will be working garment assembly, lace edging, small shaped motifs, and detailed appliqué. If you have made a few garments before and feel comfortable with shaping and joining pieces, you are ready for this project.
Materials
Yarn
You will need sport weight or fine weight cotton yarn, approximately 125 meters per 50 grams. Here is the breakdown by color:
- Cornflower blue: 300 meters for the bodice and matching details, plus 250 meters for sleeves, hem, and motifs (550 meters total if using one blue).
- White: 400 meters for the skirt.
- Sage green: 50 meters for leaves.
- Golden yellow and contrast colors: 25 meters each for flower centers and any filler flowers.
The total yarn needed is approximately 1,050 meters before small contrasts. Your actual usage may vary slightly, so measure on your sample.
Tools
- 3.5 mm hook for the main garment
- 3 mm hook for appliqués and cords
- 2.5 mm hook (optional) for tiny flowers
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Tape measure
- Scissors
- Rust-resistant blocking pins
- 3 small sew-in snaps with backing fabric
Gauge and Finished Size
Getting your gauge right is essential for this dress to fit properly.
Blocked gauge: 20 double crochet (dc) stitches and 12 rows equals 10 cm by 10 cm (4 inches by 4 inches).
To make your gauge swatch, chain (ch) 32. Work a double crochet in the third chain from hook and in each remaining chain across. You should have 30 dc. Work 18 rows total. Wash and dry the swatch exactly as you plan to care for the finished garment, then measure the central 20 dc and 12 rows.
If your measurements do not match, change your hook size and try again. This step is not optional for garments, trust me on this one.
Abbreviations
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout. Here are all the stitches and terms you will encounter:
- ch = chain: yarn over and draw through the loop on your hook
- sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, draw through both the stitch and the loop on hook in one movement
- sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops
- hdc = half double crochet: yarn over first, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops
- dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice
- tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice before inserting hook, draw up a loop, then yarn over and draw through 2 loops three times
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp = space
- inc = 2 stitches worked in one stitch
- V-st = (dc, ch 1, dc) worked in one location
- sc2tog = single crochet decrease: insert hook and draw up a loop in each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops
Important counting rule: The turning ch 1 or ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. When joining rounds, join to the first actual stitch, not to a chain.
Pattern Notes
This dress is designed as occasion clothing, not sleepwear. Use with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress where the lace fabric is open. Safety note: Avoid detachable pins, clips, beads, or long loose ribbon ties on children’s clothing.
Pattern Instructions
Front Bodice Instructions
Rows 1 through 14
With cornflower blue yarn and your 3.5 mm hook, ch 58.
Row 1: Dc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across. You should have 56 dc. Turn.
Rows 2 through 14: Ch 2, dc in every st across (56 dc). Turn after each row. Do not work a stitch into the turning chain.
Armhole Shaping, Row 15
Sl st in the first 4 stitches. Ch 2, then dc in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. You now have 48 dc. Those 4 unworked stitches on each side create a 2 cm underarm ledge.
Rows 16 through 20
Ch 2, dc in all 48 stitches. Turn after each row (48 dc).
At this point, place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches form your neckline opening.
First Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26
Ch 2, dc in the first 10 stitches only. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked. Turn (10 dc).
Work 5 more rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Second Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26
With the same side of the panel facing you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Work toward the center: ch 2 and dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn.
Work 5 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
Both shoulder straps should have 6 rows above Row 20.
Front Bodice Checkpoint
Panel width below armholes: 28 cm. Width above underarm ledges: 24 cm. Shoulder width: 5 cm each. Neckline gap: 14 cm. Overall height: approximately 21.7 cm.
Back Bodice Instructions
Rows 1 through 14
Using cornflower blue, make a second panel exactly as the Front Rows 1 through 14. You should have 56 dc each row. Mark the center between stitches 28 and 29.
Left Half, Rows 15 through 23
Row 15: Sl st in the first 4 sts. Ch 2, dc in the next 24 sts, stopping at the center marker. Leave the other half unworked. Turn (24 dc).
Rows 16 through 23: Ch 2, dc in each st. Turn (24 dc). Fasten off.
Right Half, Rows 15 through 23
Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach yarn at the center marker and work toward the outer edge: ch 2, dc in the next 24 sts, leaving the final 4 sts unworked. Turn (24 dc).
Work Rows 16 through 23 the same as the left half. Fasten off.
The center edges remain separate to create the back opening.
Back Shoulders, Rows 24 through 26
On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23. Dc across the outermost 10 sts only. Leave the inner 14 sts unworked. Turn.
Work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
The two 14-st inner gaps create a 28-st back neckline.
Joining the Bodice
Block both panels to the target measurements before joining. With right sides together, join each pair of 10-st shoulder tops using mattress stitch. To do this, align the matching edges and use your tapestry needle to pick up one small strand from each edge alternately. Tighten gradually so the join lies flat without pulling the seam shorter than the fabric.
Join the side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only. Match your rows carefully and keep all upper edges open for the armholes. Turn right side out.
Pre-Skirt Checkpoint
The lower edge has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, giving you 112 stitches total around the bottom. The back slit begins above Row 14. Try the bodice on a correctly sized dress form or the child if possible. Check the chest ease and head access before adding the weight of the skirt.
Skirt Construction
Note: Specific stitch counts and round instructions for the skirt, sleeves, and border are available in the ad-free printable PDF.
Flutter Sleeves
Sleeve foundation and flutter rows details are included in the full pattern.
Lace Hem Border
Hem rounds 1 through 3 details are included in the full pattern.
Forget-Me-Not Flowers
Instructions for the five-petal center, petals, large waist flowers, pointed leaves, and tiny filler flowers are included in the full pattern.
Appliqué Placement
Placement guide and how many to make details are included in the full pattern.
Waist Sash and Decorative Finish
Ribbon sash option, yarn-only alternative, and small crochet bow instructions are included in the full pattern.
Neckline Edging
Neckline edging details are included in the full pattern.
Back Bands and Closures
Back bands and closures instructions are included in the full pattern.
Assembly
Block both panels to the target measurements before joining. With right sides together, join each pair of 10-st shoulder tops using mattress stitch. To do this, align the matching edges and use your tapestry needle to pick up one small strand from each edge alternately. Tighten gradually so the join lies flat without pulling the seam shorter than the fabric.
Join the side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only. Match your rows carefully and keep all upper edges open for the armholes. Turn right side out.
The lower edge has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, giving you 112 stitches total around the bottom. The back slit begins above Row 14.
Try the bodice on a correctly sized dress form or the child if possible. Check the chest ease and head access before adding the weight of the skirt.
Weave in all ends through several stitches, reverse direction, and secure before trimming.
Wash according to your yarn label. Gently press out water in a towel. Do not wring. Pin the bodice to 56 cm chest circumference. Ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist. Shape the lace scallops, sleeve ruffles, and appliqués individually. Dry completely on a flat surface before wearing.
Tips
If your measurements do not match, change your hook size and try again. This step is not optional for garments, trust me on this one.
Take your time with the gauge swatch. Count your stitches at each checkpoint. Block thoroughly. And most importantly, enjoy the process. This is the kind of project where you can really see your skills in action.
Hand-wash cool if compatible with all materials. Support the wet garment and dry flat. Do not hang while wet. Check snaps, seams, ribbon, and appliqué attachments before each wear. Repair any loose parts before use.
FAQs
What yarn weight is best for this dress?
This pattern calls for sport weight or fine weight cotton yarn. Cotton is ideal for keeping the structure of the bodice and the flow of the skirt intact.
Can I make this dress for an older child?
This is a single-size pattern designed for a 56 cm chest measurement (approx. 2-3 years old). You would need to adjust the stitch counts significantly to grade the pattern for larger sizes.
Is this dress suitable for everyday wear?
The dress is designed as occasion clothing. Because the lace fabric is open in places, it is recommended to use a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress for everyday wear.
How do I care for the finished dress?
Hand-wash cool if compatible with all materials. Support the wet garment and dry flat. Do not hang while wet, as this can stretch the fabric.
Do I need to block the dress?
Yes, blocking is essential. You should block both panels to the target measurements before joining, and shape the lace scallops and appliqués individually after assembly.
What hook size should I use?
Use a 3.5 mm hook for the main garment. A 3 mm hook is recommended for the appliqués and cords, and a 2.5 mm hook is optional for tiny flowers.
