Cute Crochet Daisy Bow Dress: 5 Easy DIY Ideas

The Sky Blue Daisy Bow Dress is a stunning toddler garment that combines a fitted bodice with a flowy lace skirt, flutter sleeves, and sweet daisy appliques. Designed for intermediate to advanced crocheters, this occasion dress features a two-panel bodice and a skirt worked downward, finished with a center back opening for easy dressing. The following guide provides the technical details, materials, and construction steps needed to create this beautiful piece.

Texture and Stitch Notes

What makes this dress truly captivating is the interplay between the solid, structured cotton of the bodice and the airy, rhythmic texture of the lace skirt. The bodice relies on tight, even double crochet rows to provide a smooth, fitted canvas, while the skirt introduces a repeating V-stitch pattern that creates a beautiful, openwork scallop. Pay close attention to the stitch texture in the skirt rounds; maintaining consistent tension ensures the lace scallops block into a uniform, rounded shape rather than bunching or stretching unevenly. The daisy appliques add a final layer of tactile detail, with their raised centers and flat petals offering a delightful contrast to the smooth dress fabric.

Project Overview

This pattern creates a toddler dress sized for approximately 2 to 3 years old. It is designed as occasion clothing, not sleepwear. Because of the lace skirt panels, it is strongly recommended to pair the dress with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress. The construction involves a two-panel bodice with the skirt worked downward. The back features a center opening with snap closures for easy dressing.

Finished Size

• Finished Chest Measurement: 56 centimeters (approximately 22 inches).
• Fit: Designed for a child with a body chest of 50 to 52 centimeters, providing 4 to 6 centimeters of ease for comfortable movement.
• Total Length: Shoulder to hem runs about 46 to 49 centimeters.
• Bodice Depth: Approximately 22 centimeters.

Please choose the size based on actual body measurements rather than age alone, as children vary significantly at this stage.

Materials

Yarn

You will need sport weight or fine weight cotton yarn with approximately 125 meters per 50 grams. The total comes to approximately 1,050 meters before the small contrast amounts. Your actual usage may vary, so measure carefully on your sample.

• Sky Blue: 300 meters for the bodice and matching details.
• White: 400 meters for the skirt body.
• Pale Blue: 250 meters for sleeves, hem border, and some motifs.
• Sage Green: 50 meters for the leaves.
• Golden Yellow: 25 meters for daisy centers.
• Contrast Colors: 25 meters each for any additional filler flowers.

Tools

• 3.5 mm crochet hook for the main garment.
• 3 mm hook for appliques and cords.
• 2.5 mm hook (optional) for tiny filler flowers.
• Tapestry needle.
• Stitch markers (removable type recommended).
• Tape measure.
• Scissors.
• Rust-resistant blocking pins.
• 3 small sew-in snaps with backing fabric.

Gauge

Getting gauge right is absolutely essential for garment construction. Your blocked gauge should be 20 double crochet stitches and 12 rows equals 10 by 10 centimeters.

To make your gauge swatch, chain 32. Work a double crochet (dc) in the third chain from hook and in each remaining chain. You should have 30 dc. Continue working 18 rows total. Wash and dry your swatch exactly as you plan to care for the finished dress, then measure the central 20 stitches and 12 rows.

If your measurements don’t match, change your hook size and try again. A larger hook gives you fewer stitches per 10 cm. A smaller hook gives you more stitches per 10 cm. Keep swatching until both dimensions match.

Abbreviations

Let me define every stitch and term you’ll encounter:

• ch = chain: yarn over and draw through the loop on your hook.
• sl st = slip stitch: insert hook, yarn over, draw through the stitch AND the loop on hook in one movement.
• sc = single crochet: insert hook, yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through both loops.
• hdc = half double crochet: yarn over first, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops.
• dc = double crochet: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops twice.
• tr = treble crochet: yarn over twice before inserting hook, draw up a loop, then yarn over and draw through 2 loops three times.
• st(s) = stitch(es).
• sp = space.
• inc = increase, meaning 2 stitches worked in one stitch.
• V-st = V stitch: work (dc, ch 1, dc) all in one location.
• sc2tog = single crochet decrease: insert hook and draw up a loop in each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops.

Counting rule: The turning chain 1 or chain 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. When joining rounds, join to the first actual stitch, not the turning chain. Mark that first stitch and count every shaping row carefully.

Pattern Instructions

Front Bodice Instructions

Rows 1 through 14

Using sky blue yarn and your 3.5 mm hook, chain 58.

• Row 1: Work a dc in the third chain from hook and in each remaining chain across. You should have 56 dc. Turn your work.
• Rows 2 through 14: Chain 2, then dc in every stitch across. You should still have 56 dc at the end of each row. Turn after each row. Remember, do not add a stitch into the turning chain.

Armhole Shaping, Row 15

Slip stitch in the first 4 stitches. Chain 2, then dc in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. You now have 48 dc. The 4 unworked stitches on each side create a 2 centimeter underarm ledge.

Rows 16 through 20

Chain 2, dc in all 48 stitches, turn. Repeat for rows 16 through 20. At gauge, your panel should now measure about 16.7 centimeters tall.

First Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26

Place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches will form the neckline opening.

Chain 2, dc in the first 10 stitches only. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked and turn. You have 10 dc. Work 5 more rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Second Shoulder, Rows 21 through 26

With the same face of the panel toward you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Work toward the center: chain 2 and dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn and work 5 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off. Both shoulder straps should have 6 rows above Row 20.

Front Bodice Checkpoint

Before moving on, verify these measurements:

• Panel width below armholes: 28 cm
• Width above underarm ledges: 24 cm
• Each shoulder width: 5 cm
• Neckline gap: 14 cm
• Overall height: approximately 21.7 cm

Back Bodice Instructions

Rows 1 through 14

Using sky blue yarn, make a second panel exactly like the front. Work 56 dc each row for 14 rows. Mark the center between stitches 28 and 29.

Left Half, Rows 15 through 23

Row 15: Slip stitch in the first 4 stitches. Chain 2, dc in the next 24 stitches, stopping at the center marker. Leave the other half unworked and turn. You have 24 dc.

Rows 16 through 23: Chain 2, dc in each stitch, turn. You should maintain 24 dc. Fasten off.

Right Half, Rows 15 through 23

Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach yarn at the center marker and work toward the outer edge: chain 2, dc in the next 24 stitches, leaving the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. You have 24 dc. Work Rows 16 through 23 the same as the left half. Fasten off. The center edges remain separate to create the back opening.

Back Shoulders, Rows 24 through 26

On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23. Work dc across the outermost 10 stitches only. Leave the inner 14 stitches unworked. Turn and work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off. The two 14 stitch inner gaps create a 28 stitch back neckline.

Joining the Bodice

Block both panels to the target measurements before seaming. With right sides together, join each pair of 10 stitch shoulder tops using mattress stitch. To work mattress stitch, align the matching edges and use your tapestry needle to pick up one small strand from each edge alternately. Tighten gradually so the join lies flat without pulling the seam shorter than the fabric.

Join the side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only. Match rows carefully and keep all upper edges open for the armholes. Turn right side out.

Skirt Construction

The lower edge now has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, giving you 112 stitches total around the bottom. The back slit begins above Row 14.

Round 1

Chain 2. Repeat the following sequence 60 times: dc in next stitch, skip 1 stitch, V-st in next stitch, skip 1 stitch. Join to first dc.

Each repeat uses 4 old stitches. You’ll end up with 60 single dc columns, 60 V-stitches, and 60 chain 1 spaces. That’s 180 dc total.

Round 2

Chain 2. Repeat the following sequence 60 times: dc in the next single dc column, skip the first dc of the V-st, work a V-st in its chain 1 space, skip its second dc. Join to first dc.

Maintain 60 repeat units every round. Mark the first column so you don’t mistake a V-st leg for it. Turn after each round.

Round 3, Establishing the Lace Pattern

Chain 1. Work 1 sc in every dc and 1 sc in every chain 1 space around. Join. You should have 240 sc total (180 plus 60).

The lace body should measure around 20 centimeters, though lace gauge often differs from solid fabric gauge. Measure before adding the border.

Rounds 4 through 24

Continue the established lace pattern for the remainder of the skirt height.

Hem Foundation

For each tail, chain 11. Sc in the 2nd chain from hook and across. You have 10 sc. Work 34 rows total, or until the piece measures 15 centimeters long.

On the last row, skip the first stitch and sc in the remaining 9 stitches. This creates a softly angled end. Fasten off. Turn the angled corner under if needed for a cleaner look.

Flutter Sleeves

Sleeve Foundation

Attach yarn at the armhole edge and work the foundation chain and initial rows as specified in the full pattern to create the base for the flutter.

Flutter Rows

Work the increasing rows to create the flared shape of the sleeve.

Lace Hem Border

Hem Round 1

Establish the border pattern around the bottom of the skirt.

Hem Round 2

Continue the border pattern.

Hem Round 3

Complete the border.

Daisy Appliques

Center

Work the yellow center of the daisy.

Twelve Petals

Work the white petals around the center.

Large Waist Flower

Assemble the main daisy motif.

Leaves and Small Filler Flowers

Pointed Leaf

Work the sage green leaf.

Tiny Filler Flower

Work the small contrast flowers.

Quantities Needed

Alternate between blue and white daisies as shown in the design. Keep the dress back plain so it remains comfortable when your little one is seated.

Applique Placement

Lay the blocked dress flat. Mark the front center and both side seams. Arrange your motifs 3 to 5 centimeters above the start of the lace hem, distributing them evenly between the side seams.

Waist Bow

Large Bow Rectangle

Create the main bow shape.

Center Wrap

Wrap the center of the bow.

Two Tails

Create the two tails as described in the Hem Foundation section.

Attaching the Bow

Sew the tail tops behind the bow. Position the bow at the front waist and angle the tails downward and outward as shown in the images.

Sew the bow center and both outer loops securely to the dress. Stitch each tail along its entire length and at its lower end, keeping it flat to the skirt without stretching the lace. For child safety, every part of the bow must be stitched flat.

Neckline Edging

Work the edging around the neckline for a clean finish.

Back Bands and Closures

Back Bands

Create the bands for the back opening.

Closures

Attach the 3 small sew-in snaps with backing fabric.

Assembly

Weave in all your ends by threading them through several stitches, reversing direction, and securing. Never just snip ends close to the surface.

Wash the dress according to your yarn label instructions. Gently press out water by rolling in a towel. Never wring.

Pin the bodice to 56 centimeters chest circumference. Ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist. Shape each lace scallop, the sleeve ruffles, and all appliques carefully. Let the dress dry completely on a flat surface before moving it.

Tips

• Counting Rule: The turning chain 1 or chain 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. When joining rounds, join to the first actual stitch, not the turning chain. Mark that first stitch and count every shaping row carefully.
• Blocking: Keep your tension relaxed on this round. When blocking, wet block each individual fan into a smooth rounded scallop without pulling the skirt waist wider.
• Safety: For child safety, every part of the bow must be stitched flat. Overlap only the leaf bases, never the tips. Baste everything in place first, then sew around all edges and through every layered center with small matching stitches. Every applique edge needs to be secured for child safety.
• Slip Recommendation: Because of the lace skirt panels, I strongly recommend pairing it with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress.
• Finishing: Hand wash in cool water if compatible with all materials used. Support the wet garment fully and dry flat. Never hang the dress while wet, as this can stretch and distort the shape. Before each wear, check all snaps, seams, and applique attachments. Repair any loose parts immediately before use.

FAQs

Is this pattern suitable for beginners?

This pattern is designed for intermediate to advanced crocheters who are comfortable with garment construction, lace patterns, and detailed applique work. It involves precise shaping and assembly.

What yarn weight should I use?

You will need sport weight or fine weight cotton yarn with approximately 125 meters per 50 grams.

How do I ensure the dress fits correctly?

Please choose the size based on actual body measurements rather than age alone. The finished chest measurement is 56 centimeters, designed for a child with a body chest of 50 to 52 centimeters.

Do I need to wear an underdress with this?

Yes, because of the lace skirt panels, it is strongly recommended to pair the dress with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress.

How should I care for the finished dress?

Hand wash in cool water if compatible with all materials used. Support the wet garment fully and dry flat. Never hang the dress while wet, as this can stretch and distort the shape.